Portugal and a visit to Lisbon

Blog 36:

A trip to Lisbon in Portugal:

Mediterranean Sunset

The Rock of Gibraltar

After leaving Italy accompanied by a beautiful Mediterranean sunset we sail through the straits of Gibraltar and the 'Pillars of Hercules' towards Cape Trafalgar, passing the snow capped mountains Sierra Nevada (a reminder of New Zealand) before altering course initially north west around Cape St. Vincent on 

Portugal's most southerly tip then a slight compass change to                                                                north into the Atlantic Ocean. 

The Bridge and Christ the King  Monument

Close up of the monument

We then cruise slowly east 10 miles up the River Tagus past the Christ the King monument (Cristo Rei) built after WW2, which resembles the Corcovado monument in Rio de Janeiro. The plinth is 270 feet high and the statue a further height of 90 feet. Finger tip to fingertip is another 90 feet and these days it is adorned with modern technology for radio                                                                    and aircraft.

A Panoramic of Lisbon from our balcany

We glide underneath the main river bridge crossing and dock right in the heart of the historic city of Lisbon (Lisboa in Portuguese, pronounced Lishboa). The bridge was completed in 1966 and styled on San Francisco's Golden Gate bridge and has the 2nd longest central span in Europe at over 1000 yards. it is 230 feet to the road above and as in the Suez Canal the QM2 gets mighty close to taking the red livery off the funnel. 

Early morning convoy of the Queens

This is the 10th anniversary of the QM2 and to celebrate on the home leg we are joined by the other two Cunard Queens namely Elizabeth and Victoria. What an impressive sight it must have been for the locals on the quayside and those rush hour drivers and their passengers using the main road which runs parallel to the dockside. 

Lisbon like Rome is built on seven hills with the city centre, known as the Baixa, lying in a central basin surrounded by steep hills unsuitable for motor vehicles. Three funicular services and one elevator serve the higher districts, including the castle Såo Jorge (St George)in the old Arab area. The centre was completely rebuilt in a grid system in the late 18c following a devastating earthquake and Tsunami in 1755.

We are not going on any of the organised tours as we did in Italy; this time Jacky is taking me on a 'field trip' around the main central tourist sites as she has been here with her friend Joan a few years back. We have no time to go further afield and visit for example the fine King Edward V11 Park or the 4 square miles of Monsanto National Park which all but dominates the western side of the city.

Classic Lisbon

We are walking from the dock westwards, parallel to the seafront and immediately come across an example of Portuguese facade tiling called Azulejos, coloured tiles, cleverly fitted together to create entire scenes. I remember seeing these in Madeira and always admired the beauty they create. The idea descended from the Moors and by the the 17c the Portuguese were masters of the craft, which has since been almost entirely associated with Portugal. Abstract patterns now cover most of the older buildings, churches and many private houses, in particular in the older districts like the fishing port area we are walking through                                                            now.

The Military Museum 

We approach a bright open square which houses a military museum. 2014 is the 40th anniversary of the revolution which overthrew the Dictator Salazar to give democracy to Portugal for the first time. The uprising started in this square and there are posters and information everywhere on the various activities and concerts to mark the celebration of liberty. In fact the bridge over the Tagus we sailed underneath is now officially called the 25th April bridge after the date of the revolution..

The Fortress from the river

My 'Field Trip' leader is heading for the station as we are going on an overland train to Belem (Portuguese for Bethlehem), 4 miles west of the city centre. Most of this area is now on reclaimed land. We know this because the Torre de Belem, a five storey fortress once known as the castle of St.Vincent, was once right out in the middle of the river guarding the approach to the City. The Basement used to hold prisoners who enjoyed a neck high bath at full tide! The pavement in front of the fort is marble mosaic in the shape of a compass dial and map of the world as discovered by the 16th century, when Lisbon was indeed the world's centre of discovery. An impressive historic building which is well worth an internal visit, however the queues are long and our time is minimal so we move on. 

close up of Torre de Belem

What a spectacular sight it must have been here in the 1500's as intrepid Discoverers and Explorers set sail along this river to make Portugal one of the richest and influential nations of the period. Gradually Spain became more influential and it is said the the Armada was gathered here before travelling North to have ago at the British. In later centuries Portugal became one of Britain's biggest allies and are now entrenched in Europe and tourism is a major source of GDP in the 21st century..

Prince Henry Monument

The Prince Henry the Navigator monument is another impressive piece of architecture, built in the shape of the prow of a caravel which was invented at that time (16c). The Prince stands at the front holding a model of a caravel and followed by a crowd of important people including statesmen and explorers. 

St Jeronimas Monastery and Museum

Across the other side of the now busy dual carriageway on the reclaimed land is the original water's edge. The Maritime Museum portrays the great nation Portugal was in the age of discovery. It is housed in the wing of St. Jeronimas Monastery, a great example of the early Manueline gothic architecture, built early 16c from the tax imposed on the sale of pepper. Who says it was the UK that invented VAT! There again is a long queue to witness the fine church and cloisters housed inside.  

The elevator to the upper town

We have to move on and grab a tram back into the Baixa area, stopping for a coffee in one of the many quaint outlets in the side streets off the main road. We see one of the elevators (Eiffelesque Elvador de Santa Justa) which basically is a wrought iron carved lift that takes you up to the Upper town. You will never guess what we purchased  - yes another suitcase, now we have to find a shop that sells extra arms to carry the ever increasing luggage haul.

Statue of the black horse

We are heading back to the river side and enter the square of the Black Horse. This was originally named the Commercial Square and used to be the home of the royal palace that was destroyed in the earthquake in 1755. There is a bronze statue of Jose 1, the King at the time. The horse is now looking a distinct pale green due to cleaning and scrubbing. This was the place where King Carlos and his son were assassinated in 1908.  We pass through the Triumphal Arch into the amazing and very spacious square which complements the statue, with flower sellers, fountains, bars and cafes all adding to the now glorious sunny afternoon. The National Theatre stands at one end, its facade resembling a greek temple..

Looking to the arab district
and the Castle

One really needs to spend a week here and we did not manage to get up into the Arab district (Alfama) and the ten towers of the castle of St George. This is the oldest and most picturesque  quarter of the city surviving from Moorish times with its tangled narrow streets and cobbled alleyways. Jacky went on a challenge to get a photo of the three Queens from a roof top up in the Alfama streets while I went back to the QM2 suitably tired and hot after a woefully short but eventful day of sightseeing. 

Jacky returned with her objective completed, having persuaded a caretaker to let her get up onto a high roof for that magic and historic picture of all three liners in port.

I saw three Queens a sailing there!

I did enjoy Lisbon, steeped in the history of an age of discovery and exploration. It looks tired in places with lots of money required for restoration but one cannot deny the splendour of architecture, both in the old city with the castle and churches in the upper town that escaped the earthquake and also in the lower buildings and lanes rebuilt in the 18th century. In comparison with other European main cities it still feels 'homely', probably as it only has 1.5 

QM2 over the Lisbon roof tops

million residents. If you are thinking of a long weekend trip or a easy flight from the UK consider Lisbon; you will not be disappointed.

  

I am still going to try to get the last home return blog out before I get home, looking back on the whole trip, a fascinating adventure of 126 days, three ships, one plane, one train, two cars and a host of other unusual modes of transport.

DKT