Blog 19 - Nelson Region South Island and the ferry trip from Wellington:
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| Wellington from the Ferry |
Setting off early from the Capital Wellington to catch the Picton Ferry for the crossing over the Cook Strait to the beginning of our journey around South Island (Maori name - Te waipounamu). Hot and sunny again;
The 92 km trip across Cook Strait can be a rough and unpredictable bit of sea but today it was a calm crossing and the 3 hour journey via Tory Channel and Queen Charlotte Sound was very pleasant indeed. The chill factor in the breezy strait was still very noticeable. I now had time to reflect on my journey around the North Island (Maori name is 'Te ika a maui').
We had travelled 2500 kilometres (1500 miles) over a 13 days itinerary, chugging away in our loveable but naughty Sally Subaru. We have met some really nice people especially at our overnight stops. They want to be good hosts here, they want you to remember them, they want you to enjoy yourselves and their island. That we did in abundance and exceeding all our expectations.
My personal highlights included the stunning views at Bay of Islands and sailing through the 'hole in the rock', the colourful and spectacular geothermal activity around Lake Taupo, visiting the traditional and unspoilt village of Whakarewarewa and watching the Maori Haka and listening to their melodic, full of pathos love songs. The Kauri forests were simply overwhelming and the manual graft of the Gumdiggers left me weary just thinking about their lifestyle. However for me the lasting memory has to be the feeling of inner peace and the majesty of spiritual Maori history of Cape Reinga. Many Tourists miss this journey, turning south after the Bay of Islands, but to stand and watch the Tasman Sea meeting the Pacific at the old lighthouse and wonder about the early history of this island will never be forgotten.
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| Karori Rock Lighthouse |
From the historic lighthouse at the tip of the North coast we are now passing Pencarrow Head, the oldest lighthouse in NZ (1859). This is the penultimate lighthouse we will see before the one on Karori Rock where the strong rip tidal currents are so infamous in these parts. This lighthouse was built in the early 1900's after the sinking of the Steamer 'Penguin' with the loss of 75 lives.
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| SS Penguin |
Thank the good Lord that this is a great day for sailing. The reputation of this bit of water is every bit as noteworthy as the Bay of Biscay and after the experience of our early few days from Southampton, I do not want a repeat, anyway I had a lovely breakfast and want to keep it in me!
A three hour crossing will take us up the Tory Channel and Queen Elizabeth Sound that welcomes most of the seafarers to South Island. We pass Cook's Lookout on Arapowa Island where in 1770 he first spotted the stretch of sea that now bears his name. This banished the last of the theories that there was a great southern continent (Terra Australis). This island was also the centre of the huge whaling industry that was so lucrative in the Victorian era. Right whales were hunted almost to extinction for their oil.
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| eye eye spy with my one eye! |
It is ironic therefore that unbeknown to Captain Cook what new energy sources in time lay before him. Through his telescope he would have seen the cliffs of North Island far in the distance as it is only 22km (13miles) wide across to Oteranga Bay. This short distance is the reason that this North Island bay is the terminal for the massive mega watt electrical power cable that lies under Cook Strait.
Yes indeed a long way from whale lamp oil to our 'taken for granted' modern electricity. The whale population is returning to these parts and can now swim freely thanks to the much applauded efforts of environmentalists and inventive genius like Thomas Edison.
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| Pelorus Bridge |
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| The road to Nelson |
The road to Nelson from Picton is full of beautiful panoramic views, sandy beaches, gorges and bridges. There is also the flat land valleys of southern Marlborough region, famous for wine making. We stopped at Pelorus Bridge over the Wakamarina River. This river crossing was once on the well trodden Maori trail to search out the valuable greenstone (Paunamu) which the Maori found such a universal stone for weapons, utensils and dress decoration. It was also a Lord of the Rings location set in one of three national parks in the region.
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| Historic South Street |
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| A Nelson shop front |
Nelson itself is a very pretty city, steeped in history and still retains the wonderful character of its colonial past.
South Street reflects this past admirably, stretching back to 1842 when Nelson became the second colony of the old NZ company bringing farmers to its port.
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| Bigamy House! |
South Street is the oldest fully preserved street in NZ and has an interesting history outlining over a period of 170 years how the original one house with acres of land became five plots and then over the years was further subdivided to the street scenes we see today. One street depicting how the town spread from the first immigrant ship that arrived (The Fifeshire) to the prosperous University and Cathedral city it is now Nelson quite rightly is hailed as one of NZ most liveable cities.
South Street also boasts a famous legal first for Kiwi land - a double bigamy case at House number one - a wife with two living husbands and a husband with two current wives. They knew how to live those early settlers and make the most of any free time they had!
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| Nelson Cathedral |
The Cathedral is well set on the hill at the end of the high street. An old fort battlement emplacement in it's gardens captures the days of the Maori uprisings when Nelson was a strategic military colonial port.
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| Queens Gardens |
Queens Gardens is beautifully appointed and we eat red snapper fish and chips which was the best I had ever tasted - The fish was pan fried in a wine and herb sauce and we had a glass of white wine while we waited. This was a take away like no other I have ever been too.
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| Thats a big ring! |
This city is full of charm, open spaces, hanging baskets, old traditional decorative iron balconies, art galleries, great historical architecture and one other piece of modern history - a jewellers shop. Not just any old shop but the most famous in NZ if you are a Lord of the Rings fan! Jens Hanson is the creator of 'The One Ring' in the LOR and Hobbit trilogies. Guess who could not help herself? Jacky just had to purchase two replica rings as well as being pictured holding the original large ring. What is with these fans, they literarily do go that extra mile!
This creative local flare is continuing in other ways. Nelson's newest trend is 'wearable art'- a form of art that could be worn and modelled. 'Bizarre Bra' as its commonly called can be garments made from paper mache, wood, sea shells, even drinks cans. ping pong balls and ear plugs! Nelson also boasts the craft brewing capital of NZ. World class hops have been produced here since the early settlers introduced the trade. Add the tasty and well received ranges of Nelson's regional wines and you have a recipe for continued prosperity and success to a absolutely lovely small and intimate city.
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| Sunset over Nelson |
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| The Geographical centre point |
We finished the day climbing up Botanical Hill (147m) which has been recognised as the geographical centre of New Zealand. There are lovely views from the top over the city and the sunset was fantastic.
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| A wonderful view from Botanic Hill |
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| Botanic playing Field |
In 1870 in the park at the bottom of the hill on the playing fields the very first Rugby match was played here. Organised by Charles Napier, now recognised as the founder of All Black rugby and in the sport in international terms, the rest is history! Another throw away useless fact is that on this very same field in 1880 a referee used for the very first time a whistle to stop an official sports match. Now not a lot of people know that!!
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| Sussex House |
This has been a diverse and interesting day and I am plum pooped. We are staying in a beautiful old colonial house called Sussex House and the new landlady has bought all new beds so a good nights sleep is guaranteed (hopefully!)
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| Punakaiki Rocks on the west coast |
Tomorrow is a long scenic coastal drive down the west coast to Punakaiki, the location of the Pancake rocks and the famous 'blow holes'.
Stick with me folks
Blog 20 to follow asap
DKT
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