The Lakes (PART 2)

Southern Lakes and Central Otago - PART 2 - BLOG 22:  (The end of a dear old friend)

The 'Remarkables' Mountain range

On the second morning of our stay at Arrowtown disaster has struck. Sally is not well - A front puncture was bad enough but when about three of us tried to get the wheel off it just refused to budge - Nuts too tight (men you will relate to this!). That was it - after an 'assertive' but polite discussion on our hosts' phone the decision to take Sally back to our rental company was made. Fortunately the local ACE car hire's place was at Queenstown Airport about 10 miles away. When the breakdown service arrived and used special equipment an almost bald spare got us to the Airport.  There are great views of the local ski slopes from here.

It was very sad leaving Sally looking lonely and dejected in the yard, we had completed together 3500km (2100 miles) in a total of 17 days and she was understandably tired and irritable with the driver (ladies you will relate to this). A lot of that wonderful journey was on windy hilly roads and the brakes were fading fast as a strange smell and a bit of smoke had indicated. We took possession of a bright newish (well 6 years is new in kiwi rent-a-dent terms) Nissan which I christened "Nancy" with a kiss on the window and a look to the heavens giving a neat 'fingers crossed' hand gesture in the process. She was altogether a sleeker, taller pristine lady and I slid onto the driving seat as if I were a backpacking teenager, Nancy sure was comfy and much easier on the steering. I felt reinvigorated and was raring to go.  Looking through my phrase book the Maori name for Nancy Nissan is "o whata' butie of a cara"- Somehow that just does not look right to me! I will need to recheck that later.

The views on the road to Glenorchy

We decided to test out Nancy by taking her on a wonderful drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu to a small town at the northern end, called Glenorchy. Stunning 360 degree panorama views with many beech forests going golden in late summer. It is oh so scotland here - my great friend John 'boy walton' Robertson would love this place. Take away the midges and double the views and it is Loch Lomond and the Trossachs: It is one of the most pleasant sights on the eye we have seen in this country and we have seen many. Jacky is in her element here clicking away on the camera as it is the back drop of many more LOR scenes.

Is it time for a bit of Maori legend? Are you sitting comfortably - good; This lake was formed by Matau, an evil giant who kidnapped Manata, the beautiful daughter of a Maori chief. Her rescuer, Matakauri destroyed Matau by fire, burning him while he lay asleep. Water from the river and melting snow off the mountains filled the giant hole he left in the ground. This formed the shape of Lake Waktipu as it is seen today (are you with me thus far?). Matau's head rested at Glenorchy in the North of the lake and his feet at Kingston in the South, Queenstown sits on Matua's knee. Legend has it that Matua's heart still beats today, explaining the very unusual 'tidal' rise and fall of this inland lake.  Now did you all enjoy that or are you all fast asleep?!

Yummy views at Glenorchy!

I talked about the biggest kiwi gold nugget of the past in Ross in my last blog - Glenorchy is the kiwi gold nugget of the future. I hope it retains it simplicity, its peace and oh those stunning views--I think they are just yummy! 

Looking towards Milford Sound

Across the lake and only reachable by 4x4 track is the backpacker town of Kinloch. As the crow flies tomorrow we are going just over these mountains a few miles to our coastal destination of Milford Sound. However the only sealed road is a long detour in a big clockwise circle of 300km around some very tricky and notoriously difficult roads including the last 120km stretch from Te Anau which goes through the infamous Milford Tunnel. That is tomorrow to look forward to, but to finish our day we travel back and into Queenstown along the same lakeside road.

Looking towards Queenstown

Now I was talking about the town of Wanaka earlier being the hub of Backpackers looking for fun - well that town is the junior cousin to the capital of adrenaline junkie which is Queenstown. If you want to do anything dangerous involving diving, jumping, skiing, canyoning, caving, river surfing, speeding on any form of transport, this is the place to holiday and party. 

This place buzzes with action - take the hair raising gondola journey over the ski slope routes - jet boat on the rapids of Shotover river - twang the bungy cord over the gorge - mountain bike at speed around the many bespoke forest tracks. 

Its the Flying Fox

There is also a frisbee golf course and yes indeed folks two bowling greens!- the list of activities is endless and every other shop advertises and organises a different or unusual adventure. I saw something advertised called the 'flying fox' - the mind boggles as to what that entails!(no it's not a bat) 

View from the Restaurant

We however just simply enjoyed the delightful harbour setting and views over the mountains and decided to have a meal at one of the many local restaurants. My steak was one of the best I have had anywhere in the world and at a good price which is even more palatable to my very Scottish wallet.

I try and remember how many feature films other than LOR and the Hobbit were filmed in these parts. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe; 10000BC; Wolverine; Prince Caspian; The Water Horse come to mind. Even Bollywood comes here and the big super-hit I Hate Luv Storys ( their spelling not mine) has the lake backdrop in it. I remember visiting the huge studios in Mumbai and it was most unusual for any Indian film maker in my day to venture too far out of the studio, never mind India, such then is the pulling power of this place. Any way I love a good weepy Luv story, don't you? (where's me hanky).

Queenstown Square

Harbour & TSS Earnslaw

This town has everything a young care-free needs to holiday. Around two million visitors come here each year. However what struck me was that irrespective of age and physical ability you are not left out. From a boat trip on the famous TSS Earnslaw down the lake to Kingston and the old steam train station or a walk about the town and gardens looking at some really nice architecture or a coffee and a piece of the very tasty local carrot cake we experienced at Glenorchy earlier.

Edith Cavell Bridge over the 'Shotover'

Information about Edith Cavell

We returned to spend our final night at the lodge by travelling over the Shotover Bridge and the ski lodge areas of the Coronet Peak. The famous bridge at Shotover is named after Edith Cavell, a lady spy of world War 1 who was caught and executed in 1915. This country has always recognised the role of woman in society and their achievements, in 1893 they were the first country in the world to give woman the vote. In the last 25 years there has been two female Prime Ministers. The Maori people's Kingitanga (the elected King of all Maori united tribes) was ruled over for the first time by a woman called Te Arikinui for 40 years to her death in 2006.  10 years ago all the main front bench constitutional roles in Parliament were all filled by woman. Praise indeed and another reason that this country seems a balanced and fair land full of promise and hope for the future..

Kawakawa trees at Shotover River

There are great views of the river valley here and yet another LOR location. Shotover was the richest gold bearing river before the Klondyke in North America. There are also many old Kawakawa (Pepperwood) trees in this area, the Maori used to crush the leaves and chew them to relieve toothache. The leaves are spicy flavoured and a dark rich colour and always grow  naturally with lots of holes all over the leaves ( nobody knows why) - I guess I should say cavities to keep the dental theme going.

Coronet Peak Ski slopes

The Coronet peak is a very popular ski resort destination and I can see why. Spectacular runs and what a place is Queenstown to end your day on the slopes - Piste in all meaning of this great word comes to mind!  

Sally Subaru goodbye old friend

What another eventful, exhilarating and exiting two plus days in this place of scenic beauty. Tomorrow we are heading towards Milford Sound and an overnight in a hostel before catching an early boat the next morning to travel down the fiord (as it is spelt in NZ). This is the start of a few days in Fiordland, part of another World Heritage site. How many of those have we seen already, this country amazes me and I feel privileged to see it all at close quarters. Nancy Nissan is going along very nicely but my Sally will be fondly remembered. I raise a glass of Pinot Noir ( I have finished the Merlot!) to my retired old friend….. 

End of PART TWO (blogs 21 & 22)

Blog 23 to follow:

DKT